❤️❤️❤️❤️🤍 (4/5) Tested by Cass — 2.5 hrs · Makes 2 loaves (~12 slices)
The savoury cousin of the cream doughnut — shaped free-form as a fat oval about two inches tall, then sliced across into thick pieces at the bakery counter. Soft fluffy white bread spread with tomato relish, showered with bacon, onion and a heavy blanket of sharp cheddar, baked until the top is bubbling and gold and the bread underneath has caught the bacon fat. Not a pizza. Not a focaccia. A very specific Kiwi thing that every bakery in the country used to make.
Ingredients
Dough
Topping
Method
Notes
Try smaller loaves if you want individual servings — though it does detract from the flavours.
Relish, not sauce. The layer under the cheese has to be a thick, chunky, sweet-tart relish — not tomato paste, not pizza sauce, not ketchup. Wattie's Tomato Relish or Barker's Tomato & Red Onion Chutney is the signature flavour. No access? Thicken passata with brown sugar, malt vinegar and diced onion cooked down till jammy.
US cheese translation. NZ "tasty cheese" is a sharp aged cheddar, far more assertive than US mild cheddar despite looking similar. Reach for Tillamook Extra Sharp, Cabot Seriously Sharp, or Kerrygold Aged. A 2:1 blend of extra-sharp cheddar to low-moisture mozzarella gives the flavour and the stretchy bubbly bakery look. Avoid mild cheddar, Colby-Jack and American — too greasy, not enough flavour.
Why milk not water. The bakery version has a slightly enriched crumb — soft, tender, sandwich-bread-adjacent, not lean crusty bread. Milk plus a little butter and sugar is the sweet spot. Water gives you baguette texture, which is wrong here.
Why par-cook bacon and onion. Raw bacon in a 200°C oven for 22 min releases a river of fat that greases the crust and leaves the bacon flabby. Raw onion comes out sharp and wet. A quick pre-cook fixes both.
Free-form or pan? Traditional is free-form oval, held together by dough strength alone. If your dough feels too slack, or you want neat edges for square slices, bake in a well-oiled 23 × 33 cm roasting dish instead — press out to fill, prove, top and bake the same way.
Reheat like the bakery: 5 min at 180°C revives it perfectly. Microwave makes the bread rubbery — avoid.
Freezer slices: cut into portions, freeze in a single layer, then bag. Reheat from frozen at 180°C for 10–12 min.
Serving: traditionally an afternoon snack still warm, or split cold in a lunchbox the next day. Also excellent alongside pumpkin soup. Butter on a warm square is not necessary but not wrong.
Variations
Overnight dough — first rise in the fridge overnight. Shape and prove in the morning. Better flavour, easier timing.
Extra-loaded — pockets of cream cheese dolloped through the relish before the bacon layer.
Onion & cheese only — skip the bacon, double the onion and caramelise it properly (20 min). Excellent vegetarian version.
Spicy — swap the tomato relish for smoky chipotle chutney, or add sliced pickled jalapeños under the cheese.
Sourdough riff — sub 100 g of the flour for active starter and drop the yeast to 3 g. Longer prove, excellent depth.
Apricot & Camembert — the cheeseboard-in-bread version, and completely untested so far. Same dough. Swap the relish for apricot chutney (or apricot jam loosened with 1 tsp Dijon, 1 tsp white wine vinegar and a pinch of salt). Skip the bacon. Layer: apricot → diced raw green pepper (~½ cup, keep the crunch) → softened onion → a thin grated mozzarella base → sliced camembert rounds, rind on, ~200 g per loaf, overlapping to cover. Drop the oven to 190°C / 375°F and bake 20–24 min. Optional: crumble crisped prosciutto over the top after baking.